Barb and Baden’s Excellent Cuban Adventure – Part 2
Getting There
Part of the joy of any vacation lies in the journey itself. While it may seem like a common sense notion, it plays a significant role in vacation planning. Most people wouldn’t want to endure a long plane ride for a mere week-long getaway. Of course, Barb and I have discovered over the years that our tolerance for what constitutes an excessive distance has gradually increased. Undoubtedly, a direct flight to a destination remains unbeatable, and we were fortunate enough to fly directly from Vancouver to Varadero, Cuba, yesterday. This eliminated hours of travel compared to any other option.
Although the flight to Cuba was only six hours, the downside was that we would be arriving in Cuba around 11 PM. Considering that we needed to take a two-hour shuttle from the Varadero airport to our hotel in Havana, it would be a late night for us. We didn’t reach our hotel room until approximately 2:30 AM, and the next day, we paid for it by crashing back in our hotel room, fast asleep, around 4:00 PM.
The hotel we are staying at in Havana is called the Hotel Sevilla. It is approximately a century old but has undergone modern updates. (The picture above showcases one of the outdoor terraces.) Our hotel is situated in the heart of Havana, and it seems that we are within walking distance of most attractions.
Before departing from Vancouver, many people had mentioned the hurricane that had affected the Cuba region. However, it had passed several days ago, and we have been blessed with sunny skies (or at worst, partly cloudy) with temperatures in the mid to high 20s. Of course, the humidity is the most significant factor, and constant sweating is unavoidable, especially when not in the shade.
Drinking up the Culture in Old Habana
When we planned our trip to Cuba, we decided to avoid spending our entire time at a resort. So, we arranged a split vacation, dividing our time equally between Havana and Varadero. We thought this would be a mutually beneficial arrangement, allowing me to experience the city’s charm while Barb could enjoy the beach.
This morning, on Tuesday, Barb and I embarked on our first full day in Havana, the proper local spelling. We strolled aimlessly through the local streets, exploring the city’s unique charm. We’re staying in the historic district of Havana, known as “old Havana.” In other cities we’ve visited, the old or historic area often exudes a charming, old-world ambiance, evoking a sense of living in a bygone era. However, this isn’t the case in old Havana. At its best, the city desperately needs millions of dollars in repairs. Old Havana is in a state of disrepair. If you’re going to enjoy any part of Havana, the first thing you need to get accustomed to is the pervasive sense of decay.
One of Cuba’s most iconic features is the 1950s-era American cars that still grace the roads almost five decades after the revolution. What’s fascinating about these cars is that while they appear to be ‘50s models, none of them sound like them. Most of them have been converted to small diesel engines. Despite their prevalence on the road, American cars are not the most common type of vehicle here. That distinction belongs to the Russian-made Lada, which accounts for approximately 30% of all cars on the road. Occasionally, we’ll spot newer cars, primarily Korean brands like Hyundai and Kia, but we also occasionally encounter Volkswagen or Peugeot models.
The Food
One of the most delightful aspects of traveling is immersing oneself in a country’s culture through its local cuisine. I find few better ways to connect with a people than by savoring their food. Before our departure from Vancouver, I had heard numerous negative things about Cuban food. Sometimes, such exaggerated claims turn out to be partially true. However, I fervently hoped that this one aspect of Cuba would be an exception.
Regrettably, it was all true. Every meal we’ve had in Havana has been utterly disappointing. The food is consistently bland, poorly cooked, or reheated from the previous day. I’m genuinely at a loss to comprehend the root cause of this culinary catastrophe. In a vast, tropical country like Cuba, there should be an abundance of diverse food and spices. Yet, despite the availability of ingredients, there seems to be a lack of passion for creating delicious meals. Barb and I are genuinely hoping that things improve when we reach Varadero and experience some better food than what we’ve had here in Havana.
To balance my negative assessment, I should acknowledge that the Cubans excel in making exceptional drinks. One of their local favorites is the mojito (pronounced mo-hee-toe). Barb and I have had our fair share of fantastic mojitos over the past few days, and anything with rum in it has been equally delightful, as rum is a locally produced product. If only we could live on mojitos instead of eating the food.
Cigars, Cigarettes
If there’s one thing Cuba is most renowned for, it’s its cigars. For generations, Cubans have crafted hand-made cigars that have garnered worldwide acclaim as the finest available. As a non-smoker, I can’t personally attest to the superiority of Cuban cigars over others. However, I must admit that while I detest cigarette smoke, the aroma of a cigar, particularly local cigars, is surprisingly pleasant. I’ve been contemplating whether to purchase cigars for myself to take home, knowing that they have a limited shelf life and would be wasteful if not used.
On Wednesday, we embarked on an intriguing tour of the Fabrica de Tabaco Partagas, a local cigar factory nestled in the heart of Havana, just a few blocks from our hotel. Among all the activities we’ve engaged in during our Havana adventure, this tour stands out as the most captivating. The small building spans approximately five to six floors, and we were surrounded by workers diligently performing various tasks, from sorting tobacco leaves to assembling cigars. It was evident that every aspect of the production process was meticulously handcrafted, making it an absolute delight to witness.
If you ever find yourself in Havana, I highly recommend taking this tour. It offers a unique glimpse into the cigar-making tradition and is a must-do for anyone interested in this captivating industry.
On to Varadero
Today is Thursday, and we’re leaving Havana to head to our next destination, Varadero. We have another two-hour shuttle ride ahead, but we’re hoping to relax and unwind over the next few days. Since we’re staying at an all-inclusive resort, I might not have much to report, but I’ll post one final update to share my overall thoughts on Cuba.
Baden
