Baden’s Excellent German Adventure – Final
Berlin Stopover
A few months ago when Frank and I were discussing the agenda for this vacation, we hadn’t discussed stopping in Berlin on our way from Hamburg to Dresden.
This brand new station (barely a few months old) was newly opened as the main train station in Berlin for the World Cup soccer matches which occurred in Germany during the summer. As far as train stations go, this new one is quite impressive.
We walked a few kilometres from the train station past the Reichstag (the German parliament building) and on through the Brandenburg Gate. When Barb and I were in Berlin last time we were unable to even see the Brandenburg Gate as it was covered up in some kind of tarp and we suspected that there was renovations being done on it. This is probably the most likely situation as the gate as visible now looks brand new and shows none of the black dirt that is common on most old monuments and buildings in Europe – mostly cause by decades (or centuries) of constant pollution.
All throughout the area of Berlin around the Brandenburg gate were thousands of people along with music and food stalls as a result of tomorrow’s celebration of Tag der Deutschen Einheit which loosely translates to Unity Day. This is the day to celebrate the reunification of Germany – once split into East and West Germany and brought back together again in 1990.
We were in Berlin for only about an hour or two when I realized how much I liked this city and would have liked to stayed here for several days instead of just a few hours. Berlin has a flavour all its own and in many ways is quite different than all of the other German cities that I have been to on this trip.
One of the first thing that we noticed about Berlin were the huge crowds that were everywhere in the city. We suspected that most of this had to do with the celebrations but nonetheless it was quite extraordinary just walking along the streets through crowds practically shoulder to shoulder.
Frank and I stopped for a bit of lunch in the area around the Brandenburg Gate at one of the stalls selling food. Again we enjoyed a bratwürst and this time I took the opportunity to have a good local beer along with it.
I think that the beer in the picture below was a “small”.
Ever since arriving in Germany there have been a few items that I have been looking for in stores but so far had not had any luck finding them. Frank suggested that we should take a trip to the largest department store in Germany which happened to be right in Berlin: KaDeWe.
Formally called Kaufhaus des Westens, it is known as KaDeWe (pronounced kah-day-vay) by most people and even the sign on the front of the store shows this abbreviated version.
We spent about an hour in KaDeWe but unfortunately did not find what I was looking for so I am beginning to feel that what I’m looking for does not exist. The selection at KaDeWe is so extensive that just about anything that you might want should be available here and usually things that you have never thought existed.
Sidebar: Right now Barb is reading this and cringing that I went to KaDeWe and only spent one hour there. I told Frank that if Barb was with us on this trip that around this time on a short stopover in Berlin she should have been telling us that she would meet us in Dresden the next day and spend the rest of the day shopping here.
After leaving KaDeWe, we were on our way back to the train station and soon on the train again on our way to Dresden. I have no doubt that this will not be my last visit to Berlin.
Crossing into the east
Before the reunification of Germany in 1990, most people remember that a there existed a separate West and East Germany that existed for just over 40 years. During that time, huge differences developed between the two Germanys in a number of ways (more on those differences later). As Dresden is located in what was East Germany, Frank and I had many discussions about some of the perceptions of the east-west relations during the train ride to Dresden.
I was aware that Germany was spending a lot of money since reunification but wasn’t aware how much money was being spent. Frank told me that there has been over a trillion Euros (yes, trillion with a t) spent on the east and there is no end in sight.
As a result of all of this, there is an undercurrent of resentment in the German citizens in the western states towards this huge amount of money being poured into upgrades of all types in the east. To an outside like me the difference between the east and west seem very small but I can see that there are definitely large differences between the western Germans and (in general) their “poor East” countrymen.
Despite all of the discussion about the difference between the eastern and western Germans, Frank and I arrived in Dresden in the early evening to a light rain and much cooler temperatures (probably around 15 degrees C). We both agreed that the warmer, sunny days that we had experienced in the first parts of the trip were probably now over and our long sleeve clothes were now going to be coming out of the suitcases.
Our first dinner out in Dresden was to place called Sophienkeller but unfortunately they were completely full so we went to a place just a few doors away called Bussmans. Bussmans turned out to be a Brazilian restaurant at which I ordered a long skewer of alternating meat and fruit which was quite unique as well as very tasty.
The next day being Tuesday and officially the Tag der Deutschen Einheit day, all of the stores were once again closed so we spent most of the day exploring the city.
Frank and I had made reservations for Tuesday night at the restaurant that we had been unable to get into the night before: Sophienkeller.
Sophienkeller attempts to recreate the atmosphere from the days of the 18th century Saxony monarch King August den Starken (“August the strong”) and the decor and costumes of the staff reflect that period.
Within sight of our table was a whole suckling pig rotating over a fire and two of the women (dare I say wenches?) at a nearby table were rolling dough into shape that was to become strudel filled with fresh plums.
Seeing the pig rotating over the fire I could not help but order the spanferkel which was an order of slicked pork, potato dumplings and sour kraut.
I can say quite honestly that when they coined the phrase “meat and potatoes”, they were talking about about German food.
The spanferkel was quite extraordinary and I commented to Frank that the potato dumplings (known as kartoffelköße here) reminded me of Christmas as it was only at that time of year that I had them when Barb’s mother Ruth made them for Christmas dinner with the goose.
To wrap all of this up, we both ordered the same dessert which of course was the strudel bäckerlaune (strudel with plums). It was served with a small scoop of ice cream and of course, a portion of whip cream.
Over the time that Frank and I were in Dresden, we did some additional exploring of the city which included a museum called the Zwinger.
The Zwinger was originally built during the time of August the Strong and was pretty much destroyed during the allied bombings of 1945 that pretty much destroyed Dresden. The Zwinger was later rebuilt during the time of the communist East German government.
One of the areas of interest to me in the museum was an incredible collection of suits of armour, swords and guns from several hundred years ago. It’s hard to describe in words the intricate detail of some of these items but the number and quality of items on display was truly impressive.
Journey coming to an end
I’m writing this final section of my Excellent German Adventure on the train from Dresden heading back towards Mainz where Frank has left his car. In about 2 hours we will be back at his home in Sörgenloch and by tomorrow around this time, I will be heading back home to Vancouver.
Before I close, I wanted to add some random comments from some of the notes that I have taken over the past two weeks. Most of these are general observations about the German people or their way of life.
Germans by and large (and all Europeans to some extent) are generally more environmentally conscious than we are. A classic example of this is that every garbage can on the street has different coloured sections for glass, paper, packaging and general garbage. These are literally everywhere and I have rarely seen just a “regular” garbage can on the streets.
In talking to Frank, I have seen that in general, Germans buy German products. Compared to in Canada, I see far fewer Asian cars and relatively few from other European countries. Given how many large German consumer brands there are, it is easy to see how the choice can be made to “buy German” where in Canada there is simply not that kind of choice to always buy locally.
However, the increasing globalization of product manufacturing means that many products that were once made in Germany by Germany companies are more and more being made with the same German brand name but in Asia. I feel that the impact of this change, over time, will have more of negative impact to countries like Germany who have traditional supported their own industries.
Many times during this visit to Germany I had seen Frank comment on the changes that seem to be occurring in the traditional bäckerei and and kondotorei (bread and pastry shops) that are on many ways one of the core traditions of Germany. The trend seems to be moving away from the family owned and run, local shops in favour of what are multi-location “chains”. To me, a non-German (although I do consider myself German by marriage 🙂 ), I might not be to tell the difference between the products from the independent stores and the chain stores but Frank insists that there is a difference but more importantly a difference based on principles. Again I see this a a global trend towards centralized production instead of producing goods onsite, locally. Frank was proud to tell me that the local bäckerei that he shops to bring the buns home every day that I stayed at his house was bought at one such local store that had been around for over 125 years in the same town.
Many Germans who live in the cities and have no area of their own for planting flowers or vegetables have arranged to have their own small piece of land called a schrebergarten. Often seen in the areas around the railway stations, there are many small plots of land (maybe 300-400 square feet) which often have a small shack where people will go and grow their own vegetables or flowers. Frank said that many people will go and spend the weekend at these gardens and is seen a way of connecting with nature and possibly supplementing their diet of fresh vegetables.
In summary
In many ways I am envious of the German for what they have available to them but I accept that I am seeing things through the eyes of a visitor and living day to day is not a vacation. If anything, I have found that my travels have given me an opportunity to realize that there are many better things out in the world but at the same time many people tell me the same thing of our country and Vancouver in particular.
Without exception, I am always happy to be returning home but something tells me that I might be happy living full time in the right European city.
Being able to spend almost my entire 2 weeks in Germany with Frank was a completely unique opportunity that gave me the chance to talk and learn about German living in great detail. On our typical vacation where we are staying on hotels we often have little opportunity to get this much contact with someone who lives in the country. I think that what made it all the better is that Frank and I have quite a bit in common and this made the time that we spent together all that much more enjoyable. I am definitely looking forward to the next time that Frank and I can spend time together in either his country or mine.
Until next year
And finally, Barb and I have already talked about our plans for our Excellent Adventures for the next two years. I’m happy to say that we are planning next year’s vacation with Peter and Liz again and I have no doubt that Barb and Liz are already talking about the details for this trip while I am here in Germany.
The one thing that Barb and I know for sure is that we have no plans to do any separate vacations again. I think that we’ve both learned our lessons from this year and that more than 50% of the enjoyment of our Excellent Adventures come from spending time together in a new exciting location.
I will have pictures posted from both Barb’s Tahiti trip and my German trip within a few weeks. No doubt I will start posting on the planning details of our 2007 Adventure very soon but if all goes to plan, our 2008 Adventure may well be our most exiting one ever. Stay tuned.
Until then, auf wiedersehen.
Baden

